Exploring Africa on motorbike: April 2013

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Tough times for my bike

When the going gets tough, the tough get going, like Billy Ocean would say. Yesterday the situation on the road was not pinky. Solitaire to Walvis bay, 230 kms, all gravel road, bad gravel, no villages on the way, not even a petrol stations. The road was completelly empty, I overtook just one bus. I was fighting to overtake the bus as the road was ribbed like a hell and full of sand surprises. After around 100 kms I've finally got that feeling. I started driving faster and I was literally floating few cms above the ground, sometimes with speed up to 140 km/h but mostly between 105 and 110 km/h. It was one of that feelings when you say, that's why I live. Live to ride. Or better fly. :) But sometimes it was really hard to control the steering and the wheels as they were not synchronized all the time because of the sand. I had to stand up few times to prevent a fall.

Billy Ocean said in his song "Darlin', I'll climb any mountain. Darlin', I'll do anything.".. But would Billy really do anything? Would he drive his motorbike from Solitaire to Walvis bay for his Darlin'?? :) We will never know.

2,27 l in 2 litre bottle? :)

Sava tyres - made in Slovenia

Only bus

Bus driver

After flying above ribbed road

Tired

Energy food

Everything started in 1982

Friday, April 26, 2013

Nice lodges and camping in the mountains

A couple from Switzerland I met at Sossusvlei desert (73-year old Richard and his wife) told me about a nice lodge and camping site in the mountains.They couldn't remember the name, they've just showed me its location briefly on their map. First day I started driving very late and I didn't find the place. I stopped at Namib Namkluft lodge as it was dark already. I ordered beer and greek salad. Owner Hans was very kind to me and offered me a cottage, actually a huge tent in the shape of cottage. I enjoyed cozy interior, soft bed and warm shower. Colorful views of orange rocks and yellowgrass fields in the morning did not surprise me anymore. I had a delicious breakfast and I also connected to wifi internet in the restaurant to update my blog. I chatted to Hans who is originally from Frankfurt, Germany but came to Namibia some 30 years ago when he was 29. I really appreciate his hospitability and I warmly recommend his Namib Naukluft Lodge when you come to Namibia. Especially if you want to stay comfortable and as close to the Namib desert as it gets. Sesriem is just 40 kms away and they organize guided tours with jeep to the desert and back. They are famous for that. Check their page,

In the early afternoon I started driving my motorbike in direction of Naukluft mountains. After some uncertainty I finally found the way to Spreetshoogte pass direction. The road is called D1261 and is normally hard to find. But I asked Robert at Adonis lodge in the valley and he showed me the way. I drove for more than one hour and I must say it is very interesting gravel road. You can see some nice landscapes and also animals. I saw some huge kudus crossing the road just in front of me. In more than an hour I met just two cars. I passed through Rebooth pass and turned left to D1275. Soon after that I found my fellow mountain camp. Happy. It is called Namibgrens Guest Farm, how could I not know.

I am staying here at Namibgrens for the second day, enjoying camping, mountain hiking and swiming pool. Swimming pool is naturally set between big rocks and water temperature is just perfect. The colour of the sky is blue and the sun is not too hot as we are 1800m high above sea level. There are twelve camping sites, every each of them equiped with outdoor showers with warm water and restrooms.

Yesterday evening we were braiing together with Ross (57) and Argie, both from Walvis bay. They were the only two other guests in the camp as it was during the week. Nice chaps, I think we will meet again. After braai, at the night, in my tent, I was watching bright stars and slowly faded listening to interesting sounds of animals. In the morning I've also heard many animals, not just birds. I recorded some sounds on my Yamaha WS24 audio recorder to detect sound sources later.

Today I checked the Villas close to camping sites. So surprised. What a comfort. Huge spacious bedrooms with shower and bath next to bed. And all set between huge rocks. And what a spacious living room with a bar and big view. So cool. A must see and try. The houses are modern and luxury version of Flintstones' houses.

Later today I went hiking and enjoyed pathways among amazing rocks and hills. I wanted to reach peak and view point from where I would have view over Namib desert. But after three hours of walking I found a shack with local people and lots of goats. There was a man, woman and six kids hanging around the house. I spreaded some sweets to the kids, they looked happy. They were Nama people.

Later I was almost lost in the mountains and ranger Derrick found me with his landcruiser. We drove back, together with a goat in the back of his landy. It's after dinner now and I have to go to sleep, baboons are waiting to sing me lulaby song. Goodnighty.

Close to sunset

Namib Naukluft Lodge

Namibgrens Guest Farm

Namibgrens camping

Namibgrens Villas

Namibgrens villas

Namibgrens Guest Farm

Namibgrens camping

Watch dog

ex baboon

Baboons live recording

Black rocks

Nama children

Sweets

Sorry

Driving with Derrick

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Wild horses, leopard, desert and the snake

Last five days in Namibia were just amazing. Luderitz surprised as a small town but in a positive way. I met a lot of inspiring people and we had lots of fun together. Good times with Reinhold (businessman), Manfred & Monica (motorbikers, businessmen), Richard (son) & Alex (waitress, Richard’s girlfriend), Sophie (post-doc french researcher living in Africa), Andy (diver, sailor), Rainer (stand up paddle instructor), George (motorbiker, ex banker).

After Luderitz I was heading for Namib desert through Aus. Just 20 kms before Aus I saw beautiful wild horses running around. Also the little ones.

Two hundred kilometers we were driving together with George, the Greek from UK which I met in Luderitz. He is driving his BMW 1200 GS motorbike which he bought in Mexico and drove it through South America for three years and then ship it to South Africa. It’s a big and heavy motorbike, maybe too heavy for Africa. I was driving in front of George as he has very cool maybe greekish style (calma, calma). After enjoying some really scenic legendary D707 gravel road, we turned right to Namtib farm to stay over. Camping there is very beautiful and you are staying right next to all those huge red rocks. The farm was bought in 1982 and run by Walter Theile from Luderitz, now it’s run by his son Thorsten and his wife. I met all of them plus Thorsten’s kids from his first marriage. The kids look very focused and good educated for their age. The girl (17) told me she prefers staying on the farm than in the big city. But it was only school holiday so they both kids have to return back to school to Windhoek, capital of Namibia.

In search of adventure I drove next morning to the gorge for the hike. I met Sonia in her 4x4 vehicle. She is phd student researcher living in a tent below the red rocks next to Namtib farm and studying life of brown and spotted hyenas and their effects on farmers’ lifes for last two years. She knows Sophie the french girl from Luderitz, what a small world. She told me she caught a grown up male leopard in her trap-camera during the night. For me it sounded like a quest. I parked my bike and started a hike through the gorge. Alone, with my camera and a whistle around my neck. Why whistle? It might fright the animal if it approach me too close. First I was very nervous to step on some snake or meet the leopard eye-to-eye. But then I was quite relaxed. Sonya told me that if I meet the leopard the last thing to do is to run. I was hiking for an hour but didn’t spot any leopard. Unfortunally or fortunally? :)

George left with his motorbike in the morning. I left Namtib farm only in the afternoon and met him few hours later on the road to Duwisib castle but somehow he didn’t stop, he explained later why when I met him again at Sossuvlei. I drove to Duwisib Castle, turned back and then another 250 kms on gravel roads in direction to Sesriem. My goal was to visit Sossusvlei and other famous dunes in Namib desert in next day. It was late and I was caught by the night so I stopped and slept over at the village 50 kms before Sesriem. It was village built for workers at Namib Desert lodge. Thank you Simon, Johnny, Ronnie, Belinda, Patience and the rest for having me at your village and kept me safe. It’s always good to meet and to be friends with locals.

Sesriem in Namibia is a tourist place and I put my tent for one night at Namibia Wildlife Resort. I drove 60 kms into the desert, saw famous Dune 45, climbed HiddenVlei dune, walked to DeathVlei lake and climbed to the top of Sossusvlei dune. When climbing to Sossusvlei dune the outside temperature was 38C. I was close to heart attack. But then I saw a 73-year Richard from Switzerland walking in front of me and I simply couldn’t turn back as I am around 30 years younger then him. Btw. Richard's son Andrew told me Richard walked up the Sossusvlei dune already for five times.

Later in the night I was sitting at the table on the sand outside of the restaurant at Sossus Oasis campsite, drinking beer and chating with Cristina and Philipp. Suddenly Philipp rose his voice and said to Cristina to slowly move to my direction. I looked to her and saw a big snake in the sand behind her back, just one meter off her feet. She stayed cool and slowly moved away. It was huge cape cobra, some two meters long, moving directly to our table. There was some panic but the local guys slowly captured the snake, put it in the bag, drove it to the desert and released it. What a night. We celebrated happy ending with jaegermeister and beer till late hours.