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Monday, May 20, 2013

Greetings to Bushmen in Tsumkwe

Cold starry night in Namibia. Back of the truck. Above well known Southern Cross, on the right moving bush and on the left lying Ryno, around 50 years old bushman (maybe 35 or 40, he doesn't know his age). We are driving back home through Kalahari desert, twelve people in one huge Ford jeep with american plates. Seven people are sitting in front in a double cabin and five lying on the open back. Going back after visiting three villages in 150 km range from Omatako to Tsumkwe. Ovi is chief of Cristian mission near Omatako in Kalahari. He, his son Dani, his wife and his daughter are from Romania and are helping Bushmen (San people) for last four years, providing them education, food and cloths. They work together with volunteers (young christians) who mostly come from Romania, but also from Ukraine, Finland and other countries.

I beleive everything happens with a reason. One day before, I was standing on the crossroad to Tsumkwe, next to my motorbike. I was trying to decide whether to go to Tsumkwe or north. I knew it is 300 kms till there and there is no petrol station on the way. Just gravel road and maybe some bushmen village next to the road. I had full tank of gasoline plus two litres in a bottle but maybe still not enough to get there. I said f... it, I go and I will start rescuing the problem when it comes to me. After 150 kms of gravel road I arrived to the sign for Omatako. I stopped and there I saw a jeep full of people. I asked them where they go and if I can go with them. I parked my motorbike and we left for Tsumkwe for two days. "If you don't try, you will never know", like my friend Kelvin from Zimbabwe says in his poem. :)

Some problems if you live in Kalahari iclude: lack of water, food and education or better self-management. There is plenty of TB (tuberculosis) as people are sleeping practically on the ground and that is not good for their lungs. Kalahari New Hope from Romania tries to help San people on the field with all above.

When we were watching sinchronized old Jesus Christ movie together with bushmen under the stars, I noticed my name translated to bushmen language. It was Mataluza, haha. :)
Road to Tsumkwe in
Kalahari desert, Namibia,
near Botswana, 260 km in front
Place where I stopped
and met people who brought me
to bushmen village
Leaving Omatako village
behind
Arriving to bushmen village
next to the road
Waiting for speech
and translation


Our tents
next to the village


Typical hairdress of 
everybody there


Fun fun fun



Learning songs in Romanian
and Bushmen language


Typical bedroom. That´s 
how they catch tuberculosis.


Translator Ryno, friend of 
late Nixau who acted Xi in 
Gods Must Be Crazy movie
After pulling out the tooth


Food
Food
Truck
Translator Ryno
New cloths for children
New cloths
Driving to Nyae Nyae Pans
in Namibia, near Botswana
Making fire to cook
next to dry lake Nyae Nyae
FIRE
Sunday morning at KNH centre
near Omatako in Namibia

Thursday, May 16, 2013

Etosha and camping next to the road

It was already dark yesterday when Alfred drove me with safari company's jeep to the neighbouring lodge to withdraw money from my maestro card. That was the only way how to pay my safari trip to Etosha as I don't carry so much cash in my pocket everyday here in Africa. You know, 'they' might rob you. :)

Alfred is 34 and is a safari guide. He was born in Etosha. His mother and his sister still live here, his father runs a cattle and goat farm 80 kms away.

As Alfred noticed I will do camping and as he knew I cant do it close to the lodge, he told me his uncle is camping nearby. He's name is Boy and is a road worker. They are camping with other road workers just 20 kms away, next to the road of course. It was dark night already when I found the workers. They were sitting around the fire. I said hello and told them that Alfred is my friend. They welcomed me to stay with them. I pitched my tent, put my Chalaka can into the fire and we had a nice little chat about life and lots of laughs.

Later during the night I watched namibian stars again and listened to some music from my iphone. In early morning (4am) it is getting pretty chilly outhere, anyway it's winter time here in Namibia. :) One hour before sunrise I've heard one of the workers came out of the tent and I saw he started a fire. Thank you man, it was freezing already. :) Brand new day in front of me, what a feeling! :)

Btw.
Etosha is 100 and some years old national park. I call it big zoo as it is big as my country Slovenia. They don't let motorbikers in so I had to find another solution how to get in. I did it with a neighbouring lodge's safari drive. 

Inside of the park I saw many very loud cars and trucks (more than on the main road), packed with tourists, some of them equipped like Rambos with all those huge almost one meter long photo objectives. Animals don't even pay attention to cars and people anymore. We saw girrafes, elephants, zebras, kudus, springboks, rabbits, you name it. 

My impression about national (game) parks in Africa again and again repeats. I mean I like the idea of national parks in general, how it was at the beginning. But how it turned out after so many years, I don't like national parks anymore. It's turning to another big industry, destroying more than rescuing. It's similar than charity with no idea if it helps or spoils.

Milk at petrol station in Oshivelo
Drinking up the Oshivelo
cattle milk
Turn to Etosha park
Alfred driving
View from our safari vehicle
Somebody's sleeping
Morning next to the road
Hansie, Rice, Oupit, Rubben 
& Boy
With Rice & Oupit
Oupit, me, Rubben & Boy
Position of my tent
'Rice' with my guitalele
in the morning
Tsumeb town
It looks meteorites fall down 
often around here

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Slowly turning right

What a start of a day! I woke up this morning in my tent pitched next to Kunene river the night before. No signs of crocodiles's visits overnight. So everything fine. I drank my coffee together with two couples from South Africa which actually brought me to this amazing place. Two brothers (around age 42 plus/minus 20 - that's our joke:) ) and two wifes, all from South Africa. We had a great fun last night, also with my guitalele (little guitar-ukulele) which is traveling with me on motorbike and entertaining people here and there.

Anyway, I started my engine and after 50m I felt to sand and dust. Karel helped me to pick up my bike. Not even 300 metres later I felt again, this time to rocks. Karel and his brother helped me to pick up my bike. I drove 500 metres further to reach more normal road. I stopped my bike and stepped to puff adder. Yes, the snake! But little one, just 20 cms, but pretty hectic reaction from her. The brothers explained me it was some Horned or something-adder which is very very poisenous. What a start of the day. :)


Geograpchical description:
After reaching Namibian-Angola border at Epupa Falls there was no way further up for me. I slowly turned right if you look on the big map of Africa. My way was to Kunene river lodge and from there to Ruacana falls / dam. Falls are of course dry because of the dam. Damn. The road from Ruacana led me to the town of Oshikati, which was 170 kms east. I am staying here in Oshikati for the second day.

Himbas, bike and dust
Camping next to Kunene river
Dusty and bomb proof engine
Ouchh on the steep uphill
Steep downhill
Direction of Ruacana falls,
next to Angola border
Big plant provides 80 pct of
Namibia electricity
Where meteorite hit the ground
three days ago. That was close.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

My heroes in Opuwo

Today I asked a youngster (security guy) at Opuwo Country Lodge camping if he wants my tent. He looked at me soooo bright and he just uttered 'yes'. So I gave him my tent. He was so happy that he was almost crying. He said that I've realized his biggest dream. 'Now I have my house', he said. 'You gave me a house. I'm so happy'. I've told the guy that it's was my biggest pleasure and that I am really happy even more happy than him as I know that the tent will be in right hands. We almost started arguing who is more happy... :) Anyway, his name is Mbimbo, he is Himba and he is around 18 (I suppose, I didn't ask). He lives in a small village Ofeoupaua 20 kms north of Opuwo. So if you see a green tent with sign 'Easy camping', that is his tent now. It has been served me for a long time in Africa and it's still in good condition. I have another one.

Today I've also noticed that my motorbike has got an injury. The frame at the back where the suitcase is attached to it was broken and it would probably fall off if we've wouldn't weld it right away. It looks that the last road from Sesfontein to Opuwo gave my bike a lot of pressure. Bobi was really kind and he welded my frame well I hope. Thank you Bobi, you are my hero.
Capital of Kaokoland
Opuwo Country Hotel
Resting
Dirty bike
Himba Moms in Opuwo
are buying it
Camping site no. 4
With Bobi The Welder
With Mbimbo, new home owner

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

No speed limit and Gyroscope effect

Yesterday I arrived to a farm called Aussicht in Kaokoland, north west Namibia, 70 km south of Opuwo. For last 5 kms I needed 30 minutes as the road is so bad that I couldn't drive in average more than 10 km/h. It was also very steep. On the way I saw all these funny signs as 'No speed limit' and ‘The road will be tared next week’. :) The farm is on top of the hill / mountains from where I had a nice view of surrounding hills. The owner lives here for last 26 years but he turned the farm into tourist farm only 10 years ago. It is self-catering but you can book a dinner with owner even if you are just camping. Otherwise meals are included in price if you stay in the rooms. I was camping.

There is a big problem with water in this area. Last year they've got just 250 mm of rainfall per square meter, this year might be even worse, as it they've got just 70 mm by now and it's already May. All of the water on the farm is collected from rain. If it's very dry for a long time, the owner will be forced to bring the water from more than 10 kms away. The water is transported by so-called water-vehicles. I wonder how the Himba tribe is coping with water problem as they have no cars. I will discover this later, probably in following days.

We had some interesting talk at the dinner with the owner Marius and two other guests from campsite, Franz and Anita from Freiburg, Germany. Marius explained one theory why Namibia has such an incredible geological surface. As the scientists claim that many milions years were needed to Gondwana continent (Africa and South America together) split into two continents, Marius 
(Aussicht lodge) beleives it was a huge meteorite which hit the Earth +-8000 millions years ago. So everything happened fast. That explains fossils. The explains unbelievable landscapes in Namibia and also Northern Cape and Western Cape in South Africa. When meteorite hit the surface, a large quantitiy of water splashed from the ground. Ocean between the new continents was created right after. That is prooved by shapes of the mountains which are all parallel to the sea. As meteroite gave Earth huge shock-momentum, Earth started to spin around its axis differentely and under a certain angle, with so called Gyroscope effect. That explains climate changes. We had different position to the sun for a long time. As the angle is coming back to more vertical position now, that's why we feel climate is changing so fast in recent years. So the Earth is just going back to normal spinning position to the sun as it was before the meteorite hit our planet.

So no worries, the Earth is not heading to any climate catastrophy. The catastrophy is hidden in humans, greedy humans. Climate change and following industry is more an invention of the new world system how to collect more money and how to enslave more people to serve to the system. But as money value is in danger to completelly collapse in next few years, there will be more suicides and new wars. So it will be very interesting and hectic around here on this planet. Only if we humans finally decide to start to use common sense again. And it must be started by each individual. 

In every step we just need to start to use common sense and we will see how many stupid things we are doing every day. Just because we are scared, unsecure or maybe just lazy.
Filling station in Sesfontein
Red rocks
Aussicht lodge, south of Opuwo
Aussicht lodge, south of Opuwo
Aussicht lodge, south of Opuwo
Aussicht lodge, south of Opuwo
Marius Steiner on the right
Little Himba